Almost every knitting (and crochet, for that matter) pattern has the following line: US X needle or [and this is the important part] size to obtain gauge. See, the needle size in the pattern is a suggestion. It’s probably the needle size that the designer used to get gauge. The designer may be a tight – or loose – knitter. Their gauge may be yarn dependent, which is to say that they got that particular gauge on that particular needle size with the yarn they used in the sample. Another similar yarn, might have given them a different gauge. So what are you to do?
For the purpose of this “lesson” we’re going to assume you are using the yarn called for in a pattern. A future Technique Tuesday post will discuss substituting yarns. You have your yarn and you’re ready to dive right into the pattern. Six inches into the back of the sweater you begin to wonder if this is going to be too big (or small). What’s gone wrong? You’re using the needle size the designer used. Problem is: you probably don’t knit like the designer.
This is where the gauge swatch is crucial. I know 90% of you just groaned and then proudly proclaimed (possibly aloud) that “you don’t swatch.” It seems so, well, so in the way to getting going on the project. However, it can save you a lot of heartache later.
You can learn several things from the swatch beyond whether the gauge is correct: the feel of the knit fabric (stiff, drapey, etc.), and issues with the yarn (does it split easily? grab onto bamboo needles? slide too easily off of metal needles?). You may be getting gauge with bamboo needles, but if they don’t work well with the yarn, you may find that your gauge is different with plastic or metal needles. You may find that the resulting fabric is more loose than you’d like for you project, and a smaller needle yields a more pleasing fabric. Added bonus of the swatch is that you can wash and dry it the way you will the finished project to see how it holds up.
Ultimately, your goal is to find a needle that creates a fabric you like that matches the gauge called for in the pattern. And it’s okay if the needle size you use is NOT the needle size the designer used.
Note: you may also enjoy reading last week’s post on Yarn Weights and Gauge